THOUGHTS CONCERNING YOUR DOG.

   I have tried to collect numerous thoughts in raising good puppies and I am just going to list a few. I think it will help you in raising this puppy to maturity and keeping her healthy for a long, long time.

   I guess the first thing I should say is that you should give the puppy what is best for him to eat, rather than what he likes best to eat. The puppy should have something to chew on, but not chew up. The puppy's learning experience is largely confined from the time he leaves the litter to the time he is 16 or 17 weeks of age. So therefore, do not put off his training or socialization until a later time.

   There is a certain amount of truth in the statement that you cannot teach an old dog new tricks. A puppy occasionally has to be disciplined. This is part and parcel of his education as a pack animal. A pack depends on a tremendous sense of order and discipline in order to survive. The animal which has passed from the first pack, the litter, to the second pack, your home, needs this direction and discipline or it will not be a happy dog. An animal appreciates being told "no" sometimes. Please do not forget this.

   A puppy loves to be handled and played with.  The more you handle it, the less the puppy will resent handling in the future and the less the puppy will respond with aggression because it is frightened.  Dogs can be a wonderful tool for educating children.  Children, however, have to understand that dogs are smaller than they and demand gentleness.  Kids and dogs can be raised in the same environment providing both are treated equally with one major expectation - I feel the dog can do much more damage to the child can do to the dog.  Therefore, the dog has to be told that he cannot do anything aggressive to a human.  If a child teases a dog, the dog can, in return, tease the child - not bite her.  I would prefer punishment to fit the crime.  This will benefit you greatly in the future when the dog who was ten pounds as a puppy, is now 70 pounds as an adult and very capable of conflicting a horrible amount of damage.

   I have preached constantly about the inadvisability of feeding dogs off the table.  I don't feed my child Purina Puppy Chow and I wouldn't expect you to feed your puppy Gerber's or meat and potatoes.  We're different species and have to be treated as such.  Table food tends to make an animal obese with many drastic consequences later in life, and also leads to an extreme infection of the gums and teeth which produces foul breath and eventual loss of most of the teeth.  Basic food for a puppy should be good quality puppy food, fed three or four times during the day. Water should be provided at all times and the animal should be given no table food, no bones, and no milk.  Bones were fed 50 or 60 years ago because they had meat on them.  There are no teeth cleansing properties to bones and they can be splintered even by the smallest dog. These splinters can cause vomiting, diarrhea, constipation, or occasionally perforation of the intestine wall.  Bones make money for veterinarians, but they don't do dogs any good.  At 4 or 6 months of age, the puppy should be switched to mature meal and fed twice daily.  Canned food, especially the all meat foods, should never be the sole source of nutrition.

THEY ARE NEVER OLD ENOUGH FOR TABLE FOOD, FOR BONES, OR FOR MILK.

   Spaying, which is the removal of the uterus and ovaries so they cannot come in heat or bear puppies, should be done at six months of age. Breeding of a bitch should occur on the second heat or later. They are not mature enough to bear and feed puppies if bred on the first heat. Castration of male dogs can be done as early as six months.

   I hope these paragraphs will help you in raising your puppy to maturity properly. Please use your phone if your dogs have problems. Remember, he can't talk very well, despite what some people may say.

Time Table for Preventative Medicine:

Well puppy exams monthly until puppy has passed four months of age

• Fecal exam each time, also distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, and parvo vaccines.

• Rabies given initially at four months of age.

Distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, and parvo vaccines yearly.

• Fecal Checks at least yearly.

►Rabies every two years after dog matures.

►Heartworm blood test and prevention each year.

►Lymes vaccine yearly for dogs exposed to ticks.

►Bordetella (Kennel Cough) vaccine for dogs going to kennels for grooming or boarding and puppies and mature dogs going to obedience training.

PUPPY TRAINING

   Although the title is Puppy Training, we will concentrate on puppy learning. "Training" involves our conscious efforts toward formal teaching. These lessons are those revolving around the pup's emotional reactions to life's new experiences. For instance, the first visit to your veterinarian will help to shape life-long response to treatment. If the pup whimpers or cries receiving a shot and you act upset or overly sympathetic, the puppy will get the emotional "message" that there really is something to be upset about. On the other hand, if you act happy, as there is nothing to be worried about, the pup will minimize its concern and follow your emotional example. This tendency holds true especially during the ages from about six to sixteen weeks.

   For example: When you have to leave your puppy alone and you express concern while leaving, the pup will feel upset because you are. Then, while alone, emotional tension builds up and yelping, chewing, house soiling, etc., can occur due to "people-behavior". As important as emotional development is, a pup also needs to learn simple commands, such as Come, Sit, and Stay, if only for its own safety. All dogs are capable of being leader or follower.  Leader-pups become extremely frustrated because they cannot open their own food, etc. A happier pup is the one that accepts its own people' direction...a follower pup. Leader pups are more difficult to train than follower pups, but with consistency and fairness both types of pups will learn to follow simple, basic commands.

   Out of all the words your pup hears you utter daily, how is it to learn that any particular word is meant for it? The answer is simple; say the pup's name before the word! For example, let us name our pup "Skip". What would "Skip" mean to the pup? It should mean "Pay attention to me because I am about to say something important to you".

Proper Equipment: To successfully train your pup you will need a buckle collar and a leash either of fabric or leather that will be easier on your hands than a chain leash, and a long line. If you choose to use a training collar or a slip collar of any type, be aware that these types of collars MUST ALWAYS BE REMOVED after each training session. These types of collars can and do catch on objects and can tighten and choke the pup possibly causing death!!! We recommend that a flat buckle collar that is properly fit to the pup as the best choice for starting puppy training.

Teaching "Come": All training should be done on a leash. To train this exercise you may want to use a long line. Take the pup on leash to an area that is fairly open but free of strong distractions. Attach the long line to the collar and let the pup wander away a small distance, then using the pup's name, give the command to come. The pup may come when it hears its name and if it does, praise the pup immediately. If the pup ignores you, attempt to get it to come to you by giving a gentle tug on the line and repeating the pup's name and the command to come.  Remember that it is very important to praise the pup as soon as it responds to your command.  Praise can come in the form of verbal praise, or you may choose to occasionally supplement the praise with a small food treat.

Teaching "Sit": Sit is one of the simplest things to teach. Before any training session like this, make sure that the pup has had a chance to eliminate out side before beginning. Then, with the leash still attached, call the pup to you, remembering to praise when the pup comes, then with the pup on your left side take your right hand and stroke under the pup's chin upwards to a spot over its head so that the pup must look up and a bit back to keep watching your hand. As you do this, say the pup's name and the command to sit. It the pup continues to look at your hand, a sit should naturally occur. If the pup looks away, or becomes distracted you may wish to try a small food treat held in your hand to keep interest. After the pup sits, remember the very important praise, or an occasional food treat.

Teaching "Stay": Remember to start your training is a non-distraction area. With leash and collar attached to the pup, call the pup to you and ask the pup to sit. With the pup sitting at your left side, say the word "Stay" as you bring your left palm about a foot in front of the pup's nose to a to about one inch from its nose. Stop your hand right before touching the pup and then step forward, turn, and face the pup. Stand directly in front of the pup. Remain standing in front of the pup for only 5 seconds then pivot back to the pup's side. If the pup moves before the 5 seconds are up, immediately move back to the pup's side and repeat the Sit and Stay commands and try again. Remember to use consistency and fairness at all times with your pup. As the pup gets better at staying, the time and distance from the pup can be increased. Important Reminders: Always train with a leash and collar. Always remain calm. If you start to feel upset or angry, put the pup in its crate for a time out, and wait for a better time to train.

   Always use consistency and fairness in all your training attempts and will end up with a happy and obedient puppy. Always remember that as with any youngster, they need to learn something new so keep your training sessions short and remember to praise when they do the new behavior that you are trying to teach them. Always have fun, this is a great time to really get to know your pup and for it to get to know and trust you. Make the most out of this and enjoy your wonderful new companion.

CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY

   One of the first things owners teach their puppies is not to eliminate in the house. One very effective method - the one used by most trainers and breeders - is crate training. Not only can you housetrain a pup using a crate, but when used correctly, the dog naturally learns to look upon it as its den. He will seek out the crate when he wishes to rest undisturbed. The crate's success as a housetraining tool is simple: Puppies will not soil their sleeping area if they can possible avoid it. But remember that the puppy needs time to play. Use the crate when you can't watch your pup, but don't overuse it.

Crate Training Basics: Crates come in many different styles and sizes. Choose one that will be large enough for an adult dog of your pup's breed to lie down, stand up, and turn around in without difficulty. If you choose a plastic crate, avoid one that has zinc nuts and bolts as these can poison a dog if swallowed. Some wire crates fold down and are more portable. To loosen the pup's anxieties, put the crate in a location close to other family members. Move it from the kitchen or family room to the bedroom at night so your puppy will always feel a part of his new family.

   You may want to remove the pup's collar before he goes in the crate. Then be prepared for his first experience with crate training. He will probably whine or cry. Offer him a treat and close the door. Leave the room, but remain nearby. At the first sign of a separation response, such as barking, whining, or howling, intervene with a sharp "No". Your puppy should associate the reprimand with his actions and stop. It may take four or five tries, but he will eventually settle down.

   Once he is quiet, keep him in his crate for 30 to 45 minutes. If he begins to cry, take him outside to relieve himself. When he accomplishes that, praise him, take him inside and allow him free time outside the crate. If he starts chewing on something other than his toys, respond with a sharp "No", take the object away and replace it with a toy. After 15 to 20 minutes of free time to play, put him back in the crate for a nap. If he cries, correct him. Because he is learning through association, consistency should help your pup accept being in his crate after only a few tries.  When your pup has been quiet for an hour or so, repeat the process.

   Be aware that your puppy will need to eliminate directly upon waking, and shortly after eating or playing. Also, a very young puppy will not be able to hold its urine all night, so be prepared to take it out at night.

   Put your pup on his leash immediately after letting him out of the crate. Rush him to the door orcarry him if he is small so he can avoid an accident. And be sure he does relieve himself once he's outside.

   Never place newspapers on the bottom of his crate, as these will only encourage him to eliminate there. After you are sure your puppy isn't wetting the crate, you can give him a towel or blanket, though he may be more comfortable without either one. 

   Gradually lengthen the amount of time your puppy is allowed to play. By the time he is about 5 or 6 months old, he should be able to control himself for an hour or so between trips outside. Saving Your Furniture: The crate is also useful as an aid in curbing destructive behavior, such as uncontrolled chewing. As your puppy matures and proves himself capable of being loose in the house, you may grant him that privilege if you prefer. The crate itself cannot stop your puppy's need to chew when he is experiencing the world, but provide him with safe chewable toys and rawhide bones. If he continues to chew unacceptable item beyond 6 to 8 months of age, he may need to be put in his crate when he is not supervised.

   By the time he is about 8 months old, he should be able to walk around the house for most of the day once he has been taken outside to relieve himself. By one year of age, he should be mature enough to be trusted all night in the house. Remember that supervision is always a good idea and you may opt to continue to use the crate when you are unable to supervise him. He will become attached to his own private "den" and will look for it.

   We have used the male gender throughout this article, but this advice is appropriate for a female puppy or dog also, and per usual, she will learn quicker!

HOUSETRAINING PUPPIES AND ADULT DOGS

   Believe it or not, teaching a puppy or an old dog to use a special toilet place is a lot easier than you would think...Why? Because this approach is natural for your dog. Thousands of dog owners have used this program successfully. So can you, if you follow these directions strictly.  Keep two points in mind: First, dogs are able to learn from five weeks through old age. Before they can learn, however, they have to realize that you are doing to teach them! Secondly, all dogs are naturally hygienic. In early life they seek a spot to eliminate that is remote from where they eat and sleep. We people are the culprits who force them to violate this hygiene. We place doors and other barriers between them and the proper toilet area.

   During this program you will use three types of rewards; verbal praise, petting, and an occasional food treat. To make you the teacher, we will use your pet's need for praise and petting, and the desire for treats as the rewards for proper behavior and for using the proper area for their toilet. Diet and Feeding: Feed at least twice a day. All dogs do not have the same digestive rates. You may have to feed your pup three times daily in order to avoid overloading its system and causing loose, uncontrollable bowel movements. When you find the right schedule the result is a dog that eats and then, within a few minutes, has a bowel movement. This works out perfectly because someone must be there to feed the dog, so supervision to its toilet spot is convenient. If possible, feed the dog inside the house. Remember, dogs are reluctant to eliminate where they eat! If your dog is urinating or defecating in a certain area try feeding right at that spot (after cleaning it up of course). Leave the food dish at the spot between meals for a few days as a reminder against spoiling that area again. Some older dogs that urinate in the house may require this food dish treatment up to six weeks to break the habit, but it works wonders with the entire program.

Teaching Where To Go: Immediately after your dog finishes its meal, take it outside, good naturedly, to its toilet area. Then stand still and let it sniff around for its prepared spot. The act of sniffing seems vital as a warm-up to elimination. Use a key word to urge your pet to perform or eliminate. Once the dog has eliminated, praise and pet enthusiastically before going back inside with your dog. Do this after each meal for adult dogs, plus the following schedule for puppies.

• After waking up, even from a nap

• After drinking water

• After prolonged chewing on a toy

• If it starts to sniff as if looking for a spot to eliminate

   In about four days the pup or dog should automatically head for its proper place after meals or whenever the urge strikes. If it takes longer, be patient

When and Where Not to Go: It is important to keep feeding times as constant as possible. Try not to feed at 7:30am week days and then delay it on weekends for the sake of extra sleep. You will ruin the bio-rhythm of the training, and your pet might become anxious and break its routine.  Dogs can control their urine up to thirteen hours, depending on activity, temperature, and surroundings. For housetraining, just as with children, they must learn to calm down to control their eliminations. Once learned, self control is an automatic thing. To help them, keep as much of a routine as possible seven days a week. Remember that pets should not be allowed free reign of the house until completely housetrained. To aid in the process, a crate or a perpetual leash is helpful.

Night Supervision: If it is possible, I urge you to have your pet sleep in a room with people.  This promotes fewer night accidents. Dogs are inclined to tune-in to the sleeping times of their people. Given a little blanket as a bed, most dogs sleep the entire night through, or use a crate, in your bedroom if possible for their sleeping area.

The Secret to Clean-up and Punishment: Old-fashioned housetraining methods tell us to grad the pup or dog, stick its nose in or near the mess and scold or punish it physically. This kind of treatment is not necessary and may even slow down your program. Instead, if an accident is discovered, just say "ugh" disgustedly and whisk your pet out to its proper toilet area. Then making sure the dog is in a safe out of sight area, clean up the mess. Strangely, many animals find it rewarding to witness their people picking up their stools and urine. They often leave another "present" at the next opportunity. This little game is called "Poop-n-Scoop". They poop and you scoop. Let the pet watch you clean up its own proper toilet area for this reason. In-home accidents can be cleaned effectively with the final solution of 50/50 warm water and white vinegar. This neutralizes the residual order. Sponge out the area stomping paper towels under foot until dry.

Special Tips: If your dog is sneaky abut urinating in the house, it may be advisable to take up its water between meals and at night. However, consult with your veterinarian. If accidents occur only at night, try using a crate to confine the dog while you sleep so it cannot sneak off to eliminate in an unacceptable area. Now that you have read this program once, read it again. Keep it handy for reference. Make sure all those living with the pet follow the program closely. If the steps are taken properly, you should expect a fastidious pup or adult dog in four days to six weeks, depending on your situation.

   Remain optimistic and good-natured throughout your programmed you will be the ideal teacher during your lives together.